These are extraordinarily good wines for such a dismal vintage, but even the briefest of visits to this estate near the Tuscan coast is an object lesson in how standards can be maintained even in trying circumstances. The vineyards are cultivated like a garden, every branch and leaf in place, the yields per vine and per acre are extremely low, and you could eat off the floor in the spotless, perfectly ordered cellar. The house is not standing pat despite the success of recent years, however, and the 2002 Rosso di Notri shows why. Created to use the grapes of the youngest vineyards, or simply those which ripened less well, its fresh ruby color, ripe and crunchy berry fruit, light spices, and supple texture will provide much short-term drinking pleasure.