“Like all Mayer wines, this is left of center, and all the better for it. The 2021 Chardonnay is bright, spiny and almost austere in both its texture and flavor, which leads to a very pleasurable, rocky, mineral persuasion. At 12% alcohol, the wine is super fine and detailed, and the flavors linger in the mouth long after the wine has gone. It is spicy, exotic and really good. It won't be for everyone, and that's okay, because there's not much of it. There's lemon pith, preserved lemon, crushed nuts, fennel flower, cold tea, buttered toast, smoked almonds and a faint suggestion of chicken stock (?). I like it very much. There's race and pace here. All the constriction and tension in the wine will gently bleed out over time, making it even better. Patience—for a little while—will be rewarded.”