“At first sniff, the funk factor presides but with time it blows off. The tropical and orchard fruit and ginger notes that replace it are candied. Give it yet more time and they feel fresher, more delicate. Floral notes unravel, too. There’s beautiful natural acidity on the palate, a lovely juxtaposition to the richness and slipperiness of the texture and fruit. Simultaneously serious and fun-loving, this is a wine to geek out over, not to knock back in one setting.”