“Pichler’s 2012 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel gets his vintage collection off to a fine aromatic start, with subtle scents of mixed greens, citrus oils and bittersweet floral perfume. A hint of caraway acts like a drop of Traminer. Luscious, infectiously juicy, crunchy cucumber, apple and lettuce allied to grapefruit and lime are tinged with piquant fruit pip, lentil, artichoke, crushed stone and iodine for a performance in equal parts invigorating, soothing and refreshing, not to mention possessed of improbable complexity for an ostensibly entry-level ‘light’ wine. Look for superb service at table through at least 2020.”