João Portugal Ramos make this wine at his father-in-law’s estate near Coimbra, from 12 acres of cerceal grown on schist soils (often confused, cerceal is a different variety from sercial). Fermented in small, mostly second-year barrels with seven months of less stirring, this needs decanting to show its best. It starts off yeasty, with austere oak tones, then brightens to scents of bee pollen and lemon peel, the sunny fruit refreshed by salinity. It feels racy, buzzing with intriguing flavors.