“Firm, with good power and density to the grapefruit, dried pepper, yellow lentil and white pepper flavors. Concentrated lemon curd notes lead to the creamy, well-spiced finish.”

“From genetically diverse vines planted en echalas (for more about which, consult my report in issue 181), Bodenstein’s 2012 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Wachstum Toni Bodenstein leads with green tea and high-toned, distilled gentian and green herbal essences as well as intimation of piquant huckleberry that subsequently serve for invigoration on a plush, expansive and richly white peach-fruited palate….[T]his Wachstum bottling is impressively rich and persistent stuff likely to merit following through at least 2022. ‘Here I think you note the difference between young and old vines,’ suggests Bodenstein, alluding to the context of a vintage in which water retention and root penetration were especially important.”