“While none of the wines in this year’s Prager collection exceed 13.5% in alcohol (‘thankfully,’ adds Bodenstein), the 2010 Grüner Veltliner Federspiel Hinter der Burg follows in a long recent line by barely scraping under the 12.5% upper limit set for its category. Pungent scents and flavors of lemon, sea oats, and green herbs accent a matrix of yellow plum and strawberry, supported by glyceral richness and a sense of extract sweetness. A suggestion of beet root and nip of white pepper lend the finish of this satisfyingly succulent Grüner Veltliner a more recognizable varietal character. There has seldom been a more luscious, sappy Federspiel at this address, whether or not the results fit Bodenstein’s generally correct characterization of this vintage as one of ‘elegance and finesse.’ I would expect to enjoy this anytime over the next 4-6 years though be inclined to favor relishing its youthful fruitiness.”