BEST BUY: “Aglianico gets more attention in Basilicata, but Di Majo Norante has farmed the grape in the southeastern end of Molise since the 1960s. This Contado Riserva, off a 38-acre vineyard planted in 1986, is plush and firm at once, the dark-berried fruit lined with fine tannins. It’s just beginning to show some maturity, some leafy sotto bosco notes, giving the fruit an autumnal feel. It’s mellow and elegant.”