Brunello, from the Tuscan village of Montalcino, is one of Italy's most age-worthy reds. 1995, the current vintage, is the best since 1990, and it shows in this single-vineyard, modern-style wine. Altesino's Montosoli 1990 hit the No. 12 spot on our 1995 honor roll.

The Altesino 1995 Brunello di Montalcino Montosoli opens what I would refer to as the modern phase at this winery. The wine shows volume and richness with ample phenolic weight. The wine is dark in color and rich in mouthfeel, but the acidity remains bright. The nice thing about it is that the fruit is dry yet not completely desiccated. In the vintages to follow, like 1997, in which frost forced low yields, many of these wines in the late 1990s and early 2000s are identified by their thicker concentration and general extraction.

[C]omplex, jammy nose of spice box, vanilla, cedar, and intensely ripe strawberry and black cherry fruit...superb richness, an easy going, open knit texture...