“Tasted at Château Batailley, proprietor Philippe Castèja believed that this bottle was re-corked at the property at the end of the 1990s. It certainly has an amazingly youthful color, with just a thin tawny rim and brick core. The nose is actually more complex than the palate, with scents of wild mushroom, black truffle, cedar wood and a touch of classic Pauillac mint. The aromatics actually gain complexity and delineation with aeration. The palate is medium-bodied with abraded but firm tannin, and this bottle is a little “chunky” compared to other 1928s that I have tasted. It develops a Graves-like personality with time, thanks to its tertiary, austere finish. Despite its age, its robustness has not been diminished. This is not a refined Bordeaux but a broad-shouldered and, I dare say, rustic Batailley. The 1928 is like your cherished old bureau with a bit of woodworm that would not be without. Drink now. Tasted March 2011.”
It's difficult to find words to describe the 1928 Taurasi. Where should I start? The color, a translucent red, is wonderfully intact. But that is just the beginning. The wine flows onto the palate with an extraordinary range of dried roses, berries, licorice and leather, all of which come together in stunning style. There is incredible brightness and purity throughout, while the finish shows remarkable grip. The 1928 Taurasi will live to see its 100th birthday, making it a nearly immortal wine of monumental standing. Readers lucky enough to have tasted this gem know exactly what I mean.