“The 2010 Mavrotragano was aged in French oak for 18 months. It was further aged in bottle for eight months. When first seen, this was another fine example of the grape from Argyros, which does a great job with it. One key question is how (and whether) they age. This was only the third bottling I'd seen (about six years ago) from the winery. Let's check in. In terms of structure, this is brilliant, as good or better than ever. Vibrant and still powerful, it finishes with some pop, and it is very concentrated.”
“The 2015 Mavrotragano, one of the relatively rare reds on the island, was aged for 12 months in 85% used French oak and comes in at 14% alcohol. Some of the earlier versions showed more power, some more oak. This is just the pure essence of red fruits, raspberries and strawberries. It is sappy, grapey and bursting with flavor. Everything is fresh and lifted. It has a certain nod to Beaujolais but more structure. That said, and granting that this is very young, it seems to lack a little focus and some of the power I've seen in the past. At the same time, it is so remarkably delicious I couldn't stop tasting it. Another six to 12 months in the cellar may let it come together better, but it is hard to tell anyone to keep their hands off of it right now. It's worth leaning up a little just for that.”
"The 2012 Mavrotragano was aged for 12 months in 500-liter French oak. It comes in at 14% alcohol. Santorini provides an awesome number of values in its white wines, but the trend of producing Mavrotragano has not led to the same good pricing in reds. The quantities are usually small, for one thing, and the reds are relatively rare. The wines, happily, have been increasingly impressive and Argyros is certainly of the best producers. It is easy to see how they are gaining sophistication and becoming worthy of some bucks. Sourced from vines averaging 20-30 years of age, this has silky texture, impeccable balance and a very graceful presentation. Just like its 2011 predecessor, there is simply a feeling of old school finesse and refinement here. You taste it and you begin thinking of some of the world's greats. Finishing with flavor and increasing grip, it does need to pull in some oak and replace it with complexity. It should do that. The oak is not overly intrusive even now. I held it open for 90 minutes and the oak blew off while the wine demonstrated more grip on the finish in its very classy and understated way. This has all the earmarks--although not quite the same flavor profile--of fine Bordeaux. The longer it sat and aired out, the better it got. A year or two in the cellar wouldn't hurt, but it is approachable. The final question it will have to answer in the cellar: will it hold gracefully for a reasonable time? I think it will."