The 1979 I Sodi di San Niccolò wafts from the glass with sweet scents of tobacco, brown sugar, spices, figs and plums. It is a fully mature, silky wine kept intact by its Sangiovese-infused acidity. Personally, I prefer wines with more freshness, but there is no doubt the 1979 has aged gracefully. Crushed flowers and dried fruits reappear on the soft, gentle finish. Readers who enjoy fully mature wines will find this right up their alley. This is an impeccable first effort. The 1979 was aged in 10-HL chestnut barrels. Sodi was the only wine made in 1979, the estate’s inaugural harvest.