“Intense, with black sesame, buckwheat, toffee and warmed walnut notes giving this a steady bass line while green tea, dried bergamot and bitter orange accents add racy elements for contrast. Shows excellent range and depth.”
This is a multi-vintage tawny from Wine and Soul, the well known producer justly famed for table wines like Guru and Pintas. It is a blend of vintages from the 1870s to 1900, I was told by co-owner Sandra Tavares da Silva.
It comes from the family estate (Quinta da Manoella in Douro) of her husband, co-owner Jorges Borges. As a family project released by the same family, one of its claims to fame is the fine continuity. At one time, the family sold grapes to Taylor's. Over the years, table wines like Fojo and Manoella appeared at times. Jorge started his own winery, Wine and Soul ("Pintas"), with wife Sandra Tavares (who was also formerly the winemaker for Cristiano van Zeller—in Douro, the overlapping connections are many). Recently, they acquired a family Quinta, Manoella (from which fine table wines are now made again under Wine and Soul’s label). With it, resting in Manoella’s underground lodge in Douro, came the 5G (Five Generations). Like most such releases, it is also in pretty packaging, as shown here. The amazing thing about this tawny, in contrast to, for example, the style of the Tributa, was the elegance and freshness, while retaining its viscosity. It is wonderfully bright and graceful, subtly intense. Unlike some in that thick, molasses and treacle style, this simply seems lively, yet with that fascinating viscosity and tension on the palate. It is remarkable that the youngest vintages are over a century old. Vibrant and charming, it is a wine that is easy to appreciate. I just loved this--but who wouldn't? As with all such bottlings of late, there is only a limited production (1,300 bottles, I was told), but it is the most reasonably priced of the group. If you can afford it, it is a very fine and unusual experience. As with the Wiese & Krohn, there is more of this in barrel which will be released for another generation.