The 1981 I Sodi di San Niccolò comes across as a bit of a brute in this tasting. It shows some of the wilder elements of Sangiovese in its dark red fruit, savory herbs, game, mocha, licorice and smoke. This is a bit unrestrained and even rustic, yet I find it hard to be too critical when a wine has aged this well after 30 years. With time in the glass, many of the more rustic notes dissipate. This is an outstanding effort.