Fred Loimer’s wines are among the very best examples of Grüner Veltliner and Riesling in Austria. He began practicing biodynamics in 2006 and is a founding member of Respekt, a certifying body for biodynamic viticulture. His estate near the village of Langenlois in the Kamptal region includes several prestigious single-vineyards and his winery is a model of modern efficiency.
Wines intended for immediate enjoyment are vinified in stainless-steel tanks while single-vineyard wines are aged in traditional large barrels and spend an extended time aging on their lees. His philosophy is one of non-intervention and patience. “If we have one helping hand in the cellar,” says Fred, “it’s time.”
Fred Loimer refers to his “mit ACHTUNG” series as “Slow Wines” because they’re produced with minimal modern technology and utilize time rather than shortcuts in their vinification. Muskateller mit ACHTUNG (Muskateller with attention) is made from biodynamically-farmed vineyards in Gumpoldskirchen. Whole berries are spontaneously fermented in oak casks for four weeks before pressing, followed by an additional seven months aging on the full lees. The wine is bottled unfiltered with a small addition of sulfur.
The wine shows the grapey and floral aroma typical of Muskateller along with notes of dried apricots, walnut, and chamomile tea. There is a noticeable grip to the palate thanks to four weeks of maceration on the skins that also contributes to the wine’s spicy finish of nutmeg and clove.
Muskateller mit ACHTUNG features a moderate level of alcohol and balanced acidity making it an ideal wine for the table. Tannins from the skins give this macerated white wine unsuspecting grip, making it ideal with white meat and fish. Pair this wine with gnocchi in brown butter and sage or an aged hard cheese.