“An old-school version, with bittersweet ganache and roasted tobacco leaf notes forming a frame around the steeped currant and blackberry fruit flavors. Singed bay and leather hints line the grippy finish. Rock-solid.”

“Louis Barruol’s Gigondas estate, Château de St.-Cosme, is among the elite Southern Rhône producers. But St.-Cosme, his négoce arm, is nearly as impressive. Sourced primarily from old-vine Grenache along with one-third Mourvèdre and drops of Cinsault and Syrah from the famed La Crau sector, this wine ages more than 24 months before bottling. Always a brick house of a wine, it requires considerable aging to stretch out. Think Bronneau, but with a little less headiness and a much lower price tag.”

“The 2012 Chateauneuf du Pape showed nicely from barrel last year, and didn't disappoint this go around. Offering a classic feel in its Provencal herbs, black raspberry, licorice and peppery bouquet, it's medium to full-bodied, shows the vintage's voluptuous texture and has outstanding length. It already has plenty of appeal, yet it will evolve gracefully for at least another decade.”