“Last-harvested and even then at only 13% potential alcohol and with the highest acidity of any Prager wine this vintage, the 2010 Riesling Smaragd Wachstum Toni Bodenstein displays a nervous dynamic of juicy lime, grapefruit and peach with citrus rind bite, fruit pit piquancy, and bitter-tart notes of gooseberry. Nut oils and wet stone help ground a buoyant, firmly-textured palate and fill-out a refreshingly lingering finish. This nose-bleed site daringly planted in 1990 has never failed to fully ripen, but in 2010 one can at least perceive its location as a challenge rather than – as has often been the case – a blessing. I suspect this will be worth following for the better part of a decade.”