“A veltliner with grüner flavor and Wachau grace, this is both bright and earthy, with lime-zest notes lighting up the wine’s broad umami richness, and invigorating energy. It comes from a vineyard behind the Weissenkirchen castle where the deep soils and warm southeast-facing exposure ripen the grapes without losing the cool precision of great Wachau grüner.”
“This comes from a vineyard at the top of Achleiten, where proprietor Toni Bodenstein planted 110 different clones of grüner veltliner in 1997. In 2017, those vines created a gorgeous wine, crisp and floral in its herbal citrus fruit, and sultry in its crushed-stone minerality. It expands with air, turning toward notes of pear, peach and plum even as the acidity holds the wine tightly, an elegant veltliner that wears its power lightly.”
“This shows the warmth of the 2017 vintage in its tropical fruit, notes of guava and dried pineapple balanced by a rich earthiness that runs underneath. Scents of bay leaf and lime zest hint at complexities to come when this has had a little more time to shed some of its youthful sweetness.
“Fleshy and floral, this this turns the usual build of a wine on its head, the ripe, sweet fruit playing backup to a massive outlay of mineral tones. It feels far bigger than the Federspiel designation suggests; enjoy its warm spice on a cold night with a roast.”
“From a seven-acre vineyard in Weissenkirchen with vines up to 50 years old, this is a big, ripe Federspiel, the fruit fully in a tropical mode. For all its richness, it’s remarkably buoyant, the acidity translating all that guava and passion fruit into pure, clean fragrance.”