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Bourbon - Whiskey American Style

Kentucky is the spiritual home of Bourbon, but Pennsylvania and Virginia (the westernmost county of which was broken off to create Kentucky in 1792) actually gave birth to this American whiskey. Both of these states, however, have all but vanished from the contemporary whiskey scene.

Virginia has only one remaining Bourbon-maker - the A. Smith Bowman Distillery in Fredericksburg - and Pennsylvania, once home to thousands of stills, holds on by an even thinner thread. A few stainless steel vats of Bourbon, which had been made at the now-closed Michter's Distillery in Schaefferstown, are all that remain. Today these Pennsylvania vats are almost empty. When they do run dry, a unique and historic whiskey will be lost to the ages.

Many Bourbon aficionados are by now familiar with the Michter's saga. The distillery, which dated back to the mid-eighteenth century, was distilling whiskey long before Kentucky was even settled. As early as 1753 there was a small distillery at this Pennsylvania site. Thirty years later the farm's owner decided to concentrate on whiskey production, making it one of the oldest commercial distilleries in the country.

Passed down in the same family for a number of years, it was finally sold in 1860 to Abe Bomberger, another relative by marriage. He gave the distillery its original name, and made Bomberger's Rye whiskey there until prohibition closed all U.S. distilleries. During prohibition, the plant was sold to a local farmer, who may have fired up the old stills every so often to keep his neighbors happy.

In 1942, Louis Forman took it over, but he left to join the Army almost immediately. When he returned in 1950, Forman discovered records from Abe Bomberger's time of ownership. As a result, he began researching the history of the distillery and the methods once used to make the whiskey. When he decided to install a pot still, he hired Charles Everett Beam as master distiller.

Mr. Beam, a direct descendent of Jacob Beam himself, was delighted at the opportunity to make really fine Bourbon - the kind he had never been allowed to make before because it was considered "too expensive." Louis Forman wanted to make good whiskey regardless of the cost.

So Michter's Pot Still Whisky hit the market in 1956. Michter's, as the distillery became known in 1975, finally closed in 1988 after making the only post-Prohibition pot still Bourbon in America.

Adolf Hirsch, a former executive of the Schenley Co., bought some aged stocks of the whiskey. He bottled a 16-year-old and a 20-year-old under the A.H. Hirsch label. Though the Hirsch brand is still found on store shelves today, the whiskies - which were long ago transferred to stainless steel to keep them from aging further - are now owned by the Hue family (operators of the Cork 'n' Bottles stores in Covington, KY), and Henry Preiss (an importer/distributor based in Ramona, CA.).

Preiss has preserved the brand name by creating "Hirsch Selections" bottlings using purchased whiskies, but the original stuff is on borrowed time. So take a closer look at those dusty bottles at the corner store - you might snatch up some bottled history.

The vacant Michter's Distillery itself, despite being on the National Historic Register, has passed through several hands since it closed, and sadly is only a dilapidated shell of its former self. The local woodworker who now owns the building uses the old rickhouses for lumber storage.

Winebow is proud to represent ...
A.H. Hirsch

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